You may find that by replacing the thermostat with one that opens at a lower temperature, you can decrease the water pump size by increasing the flow through the radiator under fast cruise conditions. The difference between the pump inlet and the radiator bottom hose will give you an indication of how open the thermostat is. The engine outlet should also stay below yout chosen max temp - 120degC or so). The difference between the pump outlet and the engine outlet will tell you the temp rise across the engine (which should stay below 8degC). For information, to do it properly you want thermocouples in the pump outlet (entry to engine), engine outlet and the radiator bottom hose. Its very likely that for your specific use you could get away with a much smaller pump, but sizing it will be difficult. Systems designed from scratch to use electric cooling have clever water jackets with low backpressure (or very fast flow), electrically controlled thermostats, and other gizmos. You will find that brute-force cooling (by attempting to mimic the maximum flow available from the standard pump) drives you down the route of a huge pump. Don't forget that the faster you are going, the better cooling your get from the radiator, so you can drop the pump flow a bit.Įlectric cooling of car engines is a minefield. The rest of the pump capacity above this speed ends up being an uneccessary overhead. Because engine driven pumps are slaves to the engien speed, its not uncommon to find that the pump design point is actually something like a high embient temperature trailer tow, or hill climb test rather than flat out on level ground. It dependes on whether the pump is sized for cooling at max power or at some other condition. That's 17500litres per hour, or 3849 UK gallons per hour, Btw, be sure to use only distilled water and water wetter (no coolant) for optimal cooling in the summer.Īssuming the pump was sized for a 320hp (240kW) engine, rejecting a typical 60% of its brake power to coolant, the water flow rate required to keep the temperature rise across the engine to 8degC would be 292litres per minute.
If you're only going to be BPU+++, I can tell you 100% for sure that the oem water pump will not hold you back. PWR or Fluidyne) + oem fan & shroud is a combo that has been roadraced VERY successfully, over 700rwhp with no overheating.
I can tell you that the oem water pump + aftermarket radiator (eg.
If you do find them please post them up here! Unfortunately, I don't have flow calcs for the oem water pump. My car is going to be a roadrace(track) car, there are benefits of both mechanical and electric pump setups but I need to know the limits and characteristics of the stock pump before I can go specing my electric pump I'd like to know if there is a calculation or a specific flowrate at a given rpm specified by Toyota for the stock Waterpump? Hey guys, owned a sup for 3years now, almost completed my single turbo conversion, upgrading from BPU with all new parts except block, I've been intrigued with the DaviesCraig electric water pump setup, I also own a Meziere electric pump too,
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